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When curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end names. However, situated high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.